What a warm welcome we received in every way – at last back to that sun
kissed , cloudless sky’s that are the south Pacific – Timing our arrival
– to the minute to coincide with dawn – allowing for the change in time
zone ( again) – we made our way through the reefs to the port of Lautoka -
( the 2nd largest on the main Island ) and home to the sugar refining plant
– after a very simple check in – with ever so friendly custom officials (
no we didnÂ’t have to throw out any of the fresh fruit , veg or other “
banned” substances. A $3 dollar Indian for lunch to return to the boat to
find covered in dust from sugar refinery chimney, black! We were directed
Port Denarau – ( as more suitable for a boat of our size – and what a place
– hard to believe this marina does not exist on any of the charts – it is
circa 20 min from the main airport , and adjacent to string of 4* hotels -
complete with a waterfront shopping mall – all filled with very friendly
Fijians. Now the marina service was amazing – we arrived to late to
actually enter ( un-chartered waters , 0.4 m clearance , sun setting v
quickly) -and so made it in at 07.00 the following day – to be greeted by
efficient marina team ( Dawn et al) – and to find other ARC boat – Grey
Lady already moored up – along with a host of other large yachts and power
boats – it didnÂ’t take us long to realise why – they could not have done
more to help , and it was v cheep – e.g Med style services ( probably the
best marina since leaving Las Palmas ) all for £23 per night .. inc
electricity !

We knew we were on to a good thing when we met Nigel (Skeegs) and his
fianc̩e Susan Рwho came for drinks Рand proceeds to tell us all about
the development , and life in Fiji – Nigel was fulfilling every skippers
dream – having quite as the skipper of a 120ft Wally – he had taken to
running a cool marina with a huge investment program . – More of Nigel &
Susan later.

What started as a simple run ashore , with a nice Indian /Asian restaurant -
turned into an exhausting ” cultural ” tour – of Fijian Night spots .
having decided to have a simple nightcap – and train yet another restaurant
to make Irish Coffees we found the staff only to willing to share with us
their tips as to where people partied – and we ran into Peter & Natishia
from the boat moored next to us .

First it was off to Ed’s Bar – very local – but lots of fun and there were
some other ” white people ” there . after a few hours watching pool, the
dance floor , the Fiji /Japan rugby – the place finally closed at 01.00 – a
sensible time to go home – but we though we should check out the all night
location recommended by the restaurant staff – Kennedy’s Hotel – not the
most posh of hotels – drinks are served through a hole in the metal grill
– but full of very friendly folks – including the staff of the restaurant
we had visited earlier – who greeted us as the Kings of Irish Coffee ! -
and so the night rolled on , about 04.00 we were invited back to the house
of some locals, which included a stop at an illegal all night off licence -
David & Nick finally managed to extract themselves circa 05.00 to return to
the boat – very tired .

Now if that is not a local welcome – the following day, only got better -
by the time we had a pulse back, we had to drag our tired bodies to Nigel &
Susan’s modest beach side mansion for a great Barb q – along with Sophie (
from Columbus) and Peter & Natishia from next door- all of this as a warm up
for the England Vs New Zealand rugby match – we did bring swim togs – and
use them – but somehow all ended up in the pool later in the evening with
our cloths on – I think it was the 25ft long tapered St Georges cross flag
that David produced form the bowels of the flag locker –

We wont write about the rugby – no doubt all who wanted to, saw it, we
watched form a water side restaurant – where the owner insisted Nick make
him and Irish Coffee ! suffice to say the Nigel – a New Zealander not only
had the last laugh – but he won the sweep stake as well ! -so down hearted
and depressed we returned to Nigel & Susan’s home for more late night
swimming – and a bottle or 2 of Rum . finally leaving at 02.00 –

Somehow the 3 of us managed to get up at 08.00 and make the 09.00 tide we
had to catch – the local are very impressed with our stamina !

Thus we headed off to cruise the legendry Yasawa Islands

BULA – the traditional greeting – we hear it every where – and have had a
fantastic few days cruising the Yasawa Islands – a mix of beautiful isolated
anchorages – some good snorkelling – but most memorable was the welcome we
received on the islands we visited .

Local tradition requires a visiting yacht to come ashore and meet the local
village chief – presenting him with a 1/2 Kg of Kava root – now this
requires certain dress codes, ( e.g. long trousers ) , and a ritual to be
followed ) – we are then granted permission to tour the island , snorkel
the reefs and generally do as we please – FYI – for the fashion conscious
– this is about the only time it is fully legitimate to wear trousers with
legs that zip off – shorts for coming ashore , zip on legs for meeting the
chief !

At Somossomo on Naviti – a local – Sophie met us on the beach and was our
guide for the duration of our stay – her sister kindly arranged for a
traditional Fijian dance evening – not like to Hotels / commercial event
– but really personal – now the villagers looked poor, by mainland standards
and were enormously grateful for some simple gifts of pens, pencils , copy
books and off course K8 Tee Shirts -

While sailing to Nacula – we had a fishing first – we caught Half a fish
– what started out as a big catch – arrived on board to find it was half
eaten by a shark or big barracuda in a single clean bite ! – we figured it
was a bad omen and returned the uneaten half to sea –

Our Arrival at Nacula – could not have been more fun – a pristine village
– ( where the chief had to be awoken to meet us ! ) – we felt very
welcome and were in turn directed to larger village – a little way down the
reef – where before we even arrived by foot we had been adopted as a
villager George -who took us on a tour and offered all sorts of insights to
village life – we asked about the best place to snorkel – ( having read
in the LP guide that there was the best snorkelling in Fiji) – and he agreed
to take us the following day – we expected a 15 min dingy ride .

boy were we wrong – – Thus Nicks Birthday ( 26th ) started with a 40 min
ride out across one reef to the open ocean ( while we are all trying to
figure if we have enough petrol in the dingy ) and in across another reef
bought us to a lovely private beach resort “Oarsman Bay” – where the head
chief of the Islands lived – ( now , we weren’t dressed properly , nor did
we have any Kava) who greeted us warmly – directed us to his snorkelling
area , provided us with a full tank of petrol and a lovely lunch . – after
which George , our guide, sensing that we didn’t like to open water route -
took us back along the coast INSIDE the reef – depth never got over about 3
ft ! – and we arrived back t his village to visit the local school ( 20
children per class) meet the headmaster – who gratefully received more gifts
of pencils , books etc – but really wanted a computer ! We again toured the
village and had afternoon tea with George & his Wife – in the home. Now
we were really beginning to feel like locals when they invited us to attend
a once a year festival they have on the 27th – but feeling we didn’t have
the right traditional cloths – they offered to loan us the traditional dress
!

So tomorrow – we are dressing as locals , and heading to meet all the
islands chiefs, where we will share Kava and traditional spit roast pig.
.what are you doing ?

While we are enjoying fun ride down to Fiji – we have, without really
trying, managed to catch more fish then we know what to do with – usually
in the form of post lunch entertainment – the line goes zing and up goes the
cry of FISH ! – even with just the 3 of us on board we have refined our
drill – and have no trouble getting them in ( killing them is another matter
) – David has done all the hard work on the reel – although we are
convinced that a longer line , coupled with letting them hang out there a
little longer while we shorten sail is making it easier to haul them in .

2 fish both HUGE – 1 Mahi Mahi and 1 Wahoo – both over 3ft long!

Mahi Mahi Wahoo

Rosie does and ever improving job in filleting the fish ( we really need
more lesions form Adrian on his return ) – and as she had pre prepared
lovely low fat meals for each evening – they are of course staying in the
freezer – as we are having fresh fish at every opportunity. FYI the Wahoo
is a tough fighter – we gave up trying to kill it with the knife and ended
up using some (Blended) whisky in the gills – that does it every time !

Not long to go – we think we’ll be through the main pass for a late
breakfast tomorrow – only 100 miles odd miles – the whole customs palaver
is a bit of a drag as we are sailing right past some very lovely looking
islands – but cant stop on account of the need to “check in” ..

We know some of our readers will be surprised by this sudden “luck” with
the fishing rod – no doubt Fishing Monthly will run a full story in due
course – so well save the trade secrets till then .

Well Tonga was lovely except that for the 14 days we were there ,we had
clear sky’s and sunshine for 2.5 days and no rain for 2 more – so 10 days of
rain made it seem like long wet cruise in the west of Ireland , except the
sea temperature was 26.7 degrees, and we never wore heavy oilskins.

The locals were very welcoming – they put a lot of effort in making us
welcome – probably the best WARC reception yet.even if all the drink ran
out, and a few fun runs ashore – one local publican in particular -
Lawrence from the Bounty Bar ( sometimes called “the Mars Bar” could not
have done more for the fleet – K8 in particular, everything from organising
a private Tongan Feast ( so so food , nice dancing ) to providing us with
his own stock of mince meat . The parties continued as ever with including
many attempts by the Irish Cultural Attaché to introduce the Tongan
restaurants to Irish Coffee – very amusing ( and great too find Jemison’s
Whiskey ),however a misunderstanding over a missing coffee pot of exquisite
design was soon resolved.

Local Mass on Sunday was very different – singing was amazing, beautiful
harmonies for the male and females present,plenty of family groups, no hymn
books – and then we were told that the regular choir were not present as
they were in Australia welcoming the Pope. How nice to have a Sunday were
everything is shut.

The locals have an 0830 radio net on channel 26 where they welcome new
boats,tell you what is going on and most importantly give you the weather.
We also said our goodbyes as we left, to which Laurance of the Bounty Bar
replied

“GOODBYE K8, SAFE JOURNEY YOU ARE THE PARTY BOAT OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC,
PLEASE RETURN SOON.”

Tonga is worth a further visit, especially when the whales are passing from
July onwards, as it is one of the few places in the world where you can swim
with them.

For now there is just the 3 of us on board ( Adrian & Jens having a much
needed holiday in New Zealand, Mandy & Chris having returned to the UK, Erin
& Andy to Australia)and we are trucking along to Fiji, in company with
Storyteller and Southern Princess, nice trade winds sailing – and rain
jackets firmly back in their lockers – some tricky Nav to avoid the
unmarked atolls and reefs – so we are all going well south around the
islands and will head up in about 100 miles time – given political unrest
and the fact that it reads like a dive, we are avoiding Suva , and will be
checking in at Lautoka ( Fijian Customs are the strangest yet in terms of
requirements for advance notice of arriving in their country – forms that
must be posted a min of 48 hours in advance of arrival – and huge fines if
you donÂ’t comply )- no return by sea for sailors within 9 months of your
visit to Fiji ( local tourist board must love them )and then heading on to
Musket Cove

Rosie doing a great job on low fat food – ( all 3 of us want to loose weight
) and we are reading continuously like a 6th form book club ( we do have the
New James Bond Book on board )

We continue to be depressed by the Rugby – both Ireland and England loosing
in their southern hemisphere tour .. Although a fun night was had ashore in
Tonga watching the England Vs All Blacks.- That coupled with reading the
results of the IRC Nationals ( class 1 – won by an Irish boat), not to
mention the housing market in the Uk- make us glad we are in the South
Pacific not UK.

We have easterly trade winds of 15/20 knots and are promised sunshine
tomorrow (Tuesday)

What do you expect in Vava’u Island the most northern of the Tonga group of
islands – we didn’t expect 5 days of rain and strong winds – such that we
have had to change our plans for cruising slowly down the islands, however
we did manage to have a lot of fun – and were joined by Mandy , Chris , Andy
and Erin who flew form the UK via Australia to join us, for a little R&R .

We still managed to have a blast , ranging from catching up with our fellow
RTW’s in the few bars of Neiafu, and actually getting out to some of the
lovely local anchorages, eating the biggest lobster you have ever seen ( in
a restaurant !) where we enjoyed great snorkelling . Thankfully we found a
great dive shop ( www.dolphinpacificdiving.com
) – owned & run by Alistair the
nicest ex fireman form the midlands you could ever meet, where we got have
funs dives , meeting with sharks , underwater caves and even a bond style
trip trough a huge split rock – as the name suggested we even tried swimming
with Dolphins – but they were too fast for us!

Fishing has been a challenge , Chris and Andy are fanatical about fishing -
and will haul in anything on the end of a hook – ranging from Squid to
small Tuna – sadly the big game fish have eluded them , but not for want of
trying. – if we Chris ever does catch a big one – his support team will be
there to help him land it ( our usual drill for the cry of FISH ! – having
been tested by the modesty of some of his catches )

Mandy has looked v smart on water skis, wake board and ever elegant in the
donut – in addition to making the best of the limited Sun we have had – 3 4
days of the 7 they were hear -! and all enjoyed a fun sail in the rain in 20
knts of wind – so that at least they could say they had been sailing !

So while the aquatic adventure has been fun we will all have to come back to
Tonga as we were a little early for the Whale season ( this is the best
place in the world for watching whales – or so we are told . but we are all
a little larger after the week on account Jens yummy food , where we all
felt like kings of Tonga judging by how we ate .

Other skills we have acquired this week , we have seen enough local Tongan
dancing to become a judge at an international event , had varying styles of
Tongan feast ( which range from hotel buffet, to a dinner that requires
low levels of lighting ! )

Overall we were lucky to have a private weather forecast for the family
visit – to have headed south could have been more 30 knts and big seas -
fine if your sailing RTW – not what you want for a weeks holiday ( if you do
– do a fastnet!)

We were sorry to miss the Ha’apia Group – but made the right decision
staying north – there is really so much to do ( and Erin didn’t really want
to do an overnight passage in 30 knts .

After 3 fun days in Nuie , we had to leave to get on with our trip , and
make it to Tonga in good time . Well, what should have been a simple 240
mile passage from Nuie to Tonga – turned in a wind filled fun (?)
adventure – leaving at 07.00 in the morning we expected a fairly windy trip
as the forecast said to expect up to 25 knts on the port quarter – so we
were hardly surprised when by 12.00 the wind had reached 25 knts , and we
had a pleasant sail in a slightly confused sea , taking it easy at about 9
knts – By late afternoon we were screaming along at 11 knts as the wind
continued to build . and we considered how we would cope with an early
arrival in Tonga ( not a place for a night time arrival)

As is always the way with sailing , as the sun set at 18.00 the wind
continued to build – now to a constant 30 Knts – by 21.00 in pitch black
we had 35 knts and even more confused seas , so you can imagine the fun we
were having trying to tee off a golf shot from the transom as we crossed the
international date line ( for the golf nuts out there , defiantly the
longest drive – hitting a ball into tomorrow , and one into yesterday ! )-
while at the same time reefing down to only a small Jib and still doing 10
knts through the water –

As we approached the allegedly largest sea mountain (Capricorn ) in the
world – where the depths go from 8000 meters to 500 meters in a matter of a
1/2 mile , we were somewhat surprised to see how confused the sea had got -
with waves breaking into the cockpit ( strange of 45 ft race boat going at
full tilt – very odd on 72 ft Oyster taking it easy )- suffice to say we now
had gusts of 40 Knts , couldn’t see the waves , other then when they were
breaking on or beside the boat , and for a few hours we shortened even more
sail and slowed down to 6 knts . – so not much sleep for the 5 of us on
board , time to catch up on DVD’s and reading as motion made sleep ( even
for Nick ) a little difficult . Thankfully the wind eased off to 30 Knts
and we speeded back up to 10-11 knts arriving a little tired in Tonga on a
horrible grey day – making the trip in a very respectable 29 hours.

As a foot note we did send a mail to the fleet suggesting they avoid the
Capricorn sea mount – most did , those that didn’t , wished they did -
Sometimes being at the front of the fleet , is not just about getting there
first – but being a path finder for everyone else . – interestingly none of
our pilot /guide books mentioned avoiding this huge sea mountain – but the
local fishermen in Tonga seem to know all about it , and avoid it on but the
calmest days !. – On K8 we’ll be watching those sea contours more carefully
in future !

What an amazing little island, sadly decimated following a cyclone Heta 4
years ago – with an ever decreasing population ( now circa 1200) But what a
welcome , Keith from the Yacht Club, supported by Harry, Jim & Momatra
could not have done more to make our visit more special – from greeting us
on the radio on our arrival to seeing us off last thing last night (
complete with a CD of photos they took of us !) – they were never more then
a few min away with help and advise – ranging from where to go for walks ,to
eat , and to buy that ever important duty free grog (£10 for a 1L bottle of
Bombay Sapphire – 47%proof ) and even a tour of the government buildings.

While enormously funded through the New Zealand government – Niue – has a
culture all of its own – a very laid back English speaking island in the
middle of the pacific – with a supply ship that visits once a month and one
flight every week ( to Auckland) – Everyone says hello to you , within 12
hours of arriving we felt we knew most of the locals in Alofi – the capital
– also the only village with any shops .

Arrival by dingy is a fun experience – and requires commando style exit
timed with the swell along the quay wall – followed by hoisting your dingy
with the local electric crane –- unless you fancy swimming ashore. Night
time entry is not recommended – while visiting we awoke to find a boat from
Estonia washed up on the reef (later successfully towed off by the
“government launch”) – FYI they maintain as a result of contaminated fuel
obtained in Rarotonga .

A lot of fun awaits the rest of the WARC fleet, sadly K8 has to press on to
Tonga .

We did some fun things aside from spending time in the yacht club bar.

Getting a local driving licence ( as a member of the UN it is good the world
over ) and only costs NZ$10 , some great walks and swims – Hired a minibus
for $NZ50 a day. And caught up with our mail via the wifi while at the
mooring . I’d like to write lots of nice things about Niue Dive – but they
insisted on a “Paddy Licence” (apparently an Irish Passport is not enough) –
But Adrian enjoyed himself – and said they were very professional. Me thinks
a PADI course in Fiji is on the cards ! Shopping is so so – but good NZ
frozen meats and very friendly – donÂ’t expect SainsburyÂ’s, however we ate
like kings in the Indian ( Gill’s) , and the Fish and Chip shop – would beat
any F&C shop in the UK . in addition to working off the calories on some
very scenic walks – ask Harry how to get to the ToTo oasis – if there
hasnÂ’t been a v big storm – a greeting awaits you from K8.

Next up Tonga – as I write we are surfing down 30 knt winds –thankfully well
behind us and will be somehow crossing the international dateline – where we
will win the ultimate in golfing longest drives – by hitting balls into
tomorrow !

Finaly we can all say ( to our Welsh friends) –Come On Tonga !

What an amazing little island, sadly decimated following a cyclone Heta 4
years ago – with an ever decreasing population ( now circa 1200) But what a
welcome , Keith from the Yacht Club, supported by Harry, Jim & Momatra
could not have done more to make our visit more special – from greeting us
on the radio on our arrival to seeing us off last thing last night (
complete with a CD of photos they took of us !) – they were never more then
a few min away with help and advise – ranging from where to go for walks ,to
eat , and to buy that ever important duty free grog (£10 for a 1L bottle of
Bombay Sapphire – 47%proof ) and even a tour of the government buildings.

While enormously funded through the New Zealand government – Niue – has a
culture all of its own – a very laid back English speaking island in the
middle of the pacific – with a supply ship that visits once a month and one
flight every week ( to Auckland) – Everyone says hello to you , within 12
hours of arriving we felt we knew most of the locals in Alofi – the capital
– also the only village with any shops .

Arrival by dingy is a fun experience – and requires commando style exit
timed with the swell along the quay wall – followed by hoisting your dingy
with the local electric crane –- unless you fancy swimming ashore. Night
time entry is not recommended – while visiting we awoke to find a boat from
Estonia washed up on the reef (later successfully towed off by the
“government launch”) – FYI they maintain as a result of contaminated fuel
obtained in Rarotonga .

A lot of fun awaits the rest of the WARC fleet, sadly K8 has to press on to
Tonga .

We did some fun things aside from spending time in the yacht club bar.

Getting a local driving licence ( as a member of the UN it is good the world
over ) and only costs NZ$10 , some great walks and swims – Hired a minibus
for $NZ50 a day. And caught up with our mail via the wifi while at the
mooring . I’d like to write lots of nice things about Niue Dive – but they
insisted on a “Paddy Licence” (apparently an Irish Passport is not enough) –
But Adrian enjoyed himself – and said they were very professional. Me thinks
a PADI course in Fiji is on the cards ! Shopping is so so – but good NZ
frozen meats and very friendly – don’t expect Sainsbury’s, however we ate
like kings in the Indian ( Gill’s) , and the Fish and Chip shop – would beat
any F&C shop in the UK . in addition to working off the calories on some
very scenic walks – ask Harry how to get to the ToTo oasis – if there
hasn’t been a v big storm – a greeting awaits you from K8.

Next up Tonga – as I write we are surfing down 30 knt winds –thankfully well
behind us and will be somehow crossing the international dateline – where we
will win the ultimate in golfing longest drives – by hitting balls into
tomorrow !

finaly we can all say –Come On Tonga