Having left Richards Bay on Saturday afternoon, we have had all the Agulhas
current we could ask for - this phenomenon does kick up a big sea, even with
25 knts of wind on the nose and 4 knts current behind us . So much so that
tacking down the African shore into 30ft seas became tiring after a while -
and all the pilots and guides say never try to rush the wild coast - So we
stopped off at anchor in Port Elisabeth for 8 hours sleep and rest from the
relentless waves (there is only so many bone shattering waves the body and
boat can take)

We then, with the help of about 5 weather sources tried to make the best of
the weather window and screamed down the coast as the wind swung aft , all
very good until the gooseneck on the main boom bust - not easy to find a
25mm Dia stainless steel pin, to hold a 1 tonne boom on the rough coast of
Africa - necessity been the mother of all invention , we managed to strip a
spare block , and hay presto the boom was back on ,alas in the course of
loosing the gooseneck we sheared some hydraulic hoses - so lots of full fat
coke a cola on the teak decks to cut the v slippery fluid and prevent
permanent staining.

It is all true about the changing colours of the water, the incredible sea
life ( no one goes fishing in this part of the world),phosphorescence like
you have never seen before, lots of whales, we even had to alter course to
miss a pair of Sperm whales , huge schools of Dolphins as the Indian Ocean
meets the South Atlantic, penguins, seals and many birds we had never seen
before .- It also got cold - something they don’t tell you - so we had to
dig out our thermals - the water temperature ranges between 23 deg and 12.3
deg.

As we approached the corner of the world , the shipping gets very busy with
the AIS reading like a geography class , merchant vessels bound for the 4
corners of world , and if you don’t want to go through the Suez , then its
round the Cape of Good Hope - just like all those tea clippers in bygone
years.

For all on board this is the first rounding of the great corner - as to be
expected it was blowing 45 knts of wind and 2 AM , so sadly no bubbly, but
we do have pictures .

And are all pleased to have arrived safely into Cape Town on early Thursday
morning, after a sleigh ride down the wild coast - only 900 miles but some
of the toughest water on the planet. Our last sea passage until we set sail
for Brazil……Now where is that jobs list for K8 … we’ll look for it
after a genuine much deserved “safe rounding” drink.

Safely Docked in Cape Town

Guess who stayed up all night in 40+ Knts of wind - while the ladies
rested in their Bunks

After seven frustrating days at sea we have finally arrived in Richards Bay
- South Africa . With the aid of Bruce, our ever dependent weather man, we
had to slow down to avoid some storms and in particular a threatened 50Knt
Southerly wind which coupled with the strong (5knts) Northerly current, sea
canyons and the continental shelf, a combination which regularly produces 50
ft waves - thankfully we avoided all of this by slowing down and preparing
well for heavy weather

In the end we had nothing more then 50 Knts and the seas never got greater
than 15 ft, although it was spooky to have a 35 knt change of wind direction
in the space of 15 min. As ever fun to watch Nick and Rosie struggle on the
foredeck ( in a force 9) as waves broke over the top of them , at one time
activating Nick automatic lifejacket

Bruce (the weather man) said :
“I have to admit I would never have cut across the Agulhas in the height of
a gale force 9 southerly change. That is precisely the scenario when yachts
go missing - it is a real game of chance whether you encounter the very
large breaking waves you know exist in that part of the ocean.I think you
did the wise thing slowing down”

Sadly this meant that our chances of winning this leg went down the pan -
but we were all happy to put safety first and once again we were the first
monohull to finish

Now with all that time to kill in the middle of the Indian Ocean we did
manage to amuse ourselves, with cooking competitions, fishing - we even had
fondue (a first for K8) - Neil the lyricists even composed a calypso tune,
to give you some idea of our activities:

We are all going to Richards Bay
Hope to be there on Saturday
Kealoha continues on the World ARC
From Reunion left behind in the dark
Now we hear of some fishy stories
But we really have some glories
Bonito and Mahi Mahi eaten with relish
To add to our photos that we cherish

We are all going……
Hope to be…..
The forecast is of rough water and gales
But we don’t care for gloomy tales
We just slow down to let our friends catch up
Just in case we made a cock up
So we crawl along at six and a half knots
Which is half the boat speed and completely nuts!

We are all going……..
Hope to be there……..
So now at over six hundred miles we drift
Seems only thing to do is get pissed
Promised waiter service from Nick at lunch and tea
Jenn delivered super scones with glee
Whilst some have reported seeing whales
Our crew gawp all day at e mails
Im signing off with the chorus line
As its at last the G&T time!

..
Edda , managed to take a very comfortable approach to a force 7/8/9 winds by
staying in the master cabin and benefiting from waiter service, in house
movies and never making it to the cockpit for the heavy weather ( we’ll be
listening out for those tall tales at the running club …. I remember when
…)

Happy to have arrived in once piece, tired after 24 h of heavy weather and
definitely in time for strong G&T’s all round.

Guest Editor - Neil Aitchison

We started at 12 am on Saturday 1st Nov ( Day 284 of the World Arc ! ) by
nearly hitting the moving committee boat! After close tacking up the Reunion
island shore with fellow competitors Strega and Faraway we decided to strike
out South for clean air as the breeze filled, settling in for our first
night at sea on this leg , well feed on pasta by Jen , and benefiting from
the carbohydrate “slump” - inevitably it was 01.30am when the spinnaker
went up ( much joy from all at been woken for such an event )

Sunday was slightly more exciting with wind of 14/16 kn apparent. and lots
of fishing - Neil making his first big catch of a 10Lbs Tuna ( sadly Bonito)
released back to the sea in the hope of a yellow fin - Yes we are still very
fussy about the type of Tuna we catch and eat ..

David and Neil were the galley slaves for the day,- which created much
hilarity , but the rum punches at cocktail hour were great - funny how the
owner gets to pull the best steaks out of the freezer when it is his turn to
cook ! Sadly with David distracted in the Galley - we are still failing to
make our magical 200 miles a day.

Monday saw the wind building and the inevitable spinnaker peels from light
to heavy kite, Adrian landed our largest ever Bonito - and this time it made
its way quickly to the freezer to be chilled for a lovely Salad - readers
should be aware we are entered in a loose fishing competition with the
Russian boat Gray Lady ( who have promised not to use dynamite)

Monday evening saw the winds increased with a vengeance from 14 to 35 knt at
times with the current on the beam. No surprise, we took the spinnaker down
and proceeded to reef throughout a mildly uncomfortable night

however we did manage to make great speed, averaging over 10 knts - which
dragged our average run back above the 200 miles - although going downwind
with full mail and full jib in 35 knts of breeze is possibly outside
manufactures recommendations!

Tuesday started with us in the shadow of Madagascar and a declining wind and
favourable current which will in time give way to the north going “Agulhas
current” - ( Check it out on Google !!) and a strong wind forecast to cross
the Straights of Madagascar to reach Richards Bay.

Edda our visiting Dr. and long distance runner extraordinaire has not yet
said hello to the guard rail and the Stugeron testing is working well.

As ever the diversion of DVD’s and sunbathing keep everyone occupied -
although after a lovely lunch ( by Daniel ) - we caught even more fish -
this time a 1.2m 10lb Mahi Mahi -

Such is the tough life - only 736 miles to Richards bay - and lots of
different weather to come .

What a lovely place Reunion was. We all thoroughly enjoyed our time there
(better in many ways than Mauritius) - despite being French (as they say not
all French things are bad!)

We enjoyed the tropical climate with the government Euros of the French
parliament - interestingly the most developed of all the islands we have
visited over the last 12 months ( Australia doesnÂ’t count as an Island) -
it turned out to be cheaper then we thought - still expensive in Euro
terms but a far cry form the punitive cost of French Polynesia

WARC were especially well organised in this port ( thanks Olivier & Mandy)
it helped that we all arrived at the same time - and almost felt like we
were on a coach party , as our hire cars were delivered , and laundry
arranged - coupled with the huge reception both for our arrival and
departure that the local tourist board put on ( we fear the tourist board
budget for the WARC events was probably similar to the entire annual tourist
board budgets of some of the smaller countries we have visited - so very
nice to be benefiting from French taxpayers ( Merci )- we were also
welcomed with open arms of all the people on the island both the yacht club
(limited drinks in exchange for tokens) to the hardcore fisherman’s bar on
the wharf where they could not do enough to help , sustain and feed us .

Final night party was a BBQ, plenty of food and drink in exchange for
tokens.
David thanked the islanders, and he and Paul then led the rendition of Good
ships set to the tune of sailing. Nick excelled as usual as the best unpaid
DJ on the continent. Edda joined the WARC village with much gusto, remarking
next morning that it was the first time she had done table top dancing. Jen
organised the blonds, Adrian was chief photographer, Rosie was the
motivator, Daniel caught up with all the gossip. Neil joined Edda on the
table for dancing, video will be released shortly

As for the Island - wonderful contrasts, lush Green, pretty flowers lovely
mountains with twisting roads - almost like the Alps , to beach side
restaurants and cafés that could have been in St Tropez.
Neil, Edda & David hiked the mountains for 3 days, while Nick & Rosie drove,
toured and Nick even took a microlight flight over the island (Great value)
Daniel has rejoined us last night having stayed on in Mauritius to spend
time with his family.

So we are all off to South Africa, our first continent since Australia and a
major land fall. We hope we will not be stopping at Madagascar (read up on
the island if you want to know why) but will be passing circa 60 miles south
as we head for Richards Bay (named in honour of Oyster founder Richard
Matthews) on the north east coast of SA . Once again we are fortunate to
have Bruce our weatherman guide us through the long leg 1350 miles, with
changing winds, strong currents and the possibility of enormous waves as we
cross the Agulhas current.

The WARC family continues to mature. Once described as a travelling village,
we are now more like a county; WARCshire on the move. Lucky South Africa -
plans are afoot for a fun fleet New Years Eve party in Cape town, as alas
for reasons of time, not all boats are heading to Richards Bay - some will
head instead to Durban , but we will all meet again by Christmas.

So after 16 Days in the lovely Island of Mauritius, we were all ready to
push off, and head further west across the Indian Ocean - next stop - a
short 130 miles away is Reunion - a real French Island (Euros, Expensive,
and semi socialist - at least when it comes to Sailing boats!) but described
as a mini Hawaii (hopefully without the American tourists) - but enough
about what’s next
Mauritius - was a fun stop off with lots of Friends and family making the
trip to spend time with K8 & Her Crew, to the stunning beaches, the Sega
Dancing and another round of great WARC parties,
The official crew party was fun , in a British (style) Pub , awful food ,
but with DJ Nick to get the Music going and table dancing as is now expected
. Northy’s tours again put on a good trip, Eureka , a Colonial house
followed by a spectacular restaurant , the lookilikey competition results
were announced , with Adrian & Jens playing a blinder as joint hosts - great
way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
The unofficial Crew part mostly organised by the K8 and the Oyster 56 Into
the blue - was a blast with a live band, Great BBQ food and great dancers
- both female and transvestite! not to mention a raft of air hostesses who
somehow joined in the fun .

Prize giving organised by WARC - paid for by the Mauritius Tourist board was
fun ( for a wine free event - Note we prefer Free Wine events! ), Prizes
were excellent for once , and yes K8 managed to pick up 2 - most accurate
ETA and while first in class A , with the combination of class A&B for
prizes we were delighted to accept 2nd place the hard working and fast guys
on Faraway

Diana H - made another pilgrimage to see her loved one (and David)and had
a great time touring the island , all that essential shopping ( a carpet
??) a tea factory , Bird watching , Glass Blowing , Botanical Garden - you
name it !
From Richmond the Hearsum family Jane, Louise, Sarah, Charlie and Katie -
had a blast, Charlie (aged 15) catching the bug and loving driving a 72ft
Oyster to the Bay of Turtles , where a fun night aboard was had by all , as
ever with Jens spectacular epicurean delights .
While on the beach Rosie & Nick relaxed with Shaun & Emily - roughing it
in a mix of a Euro35 per night apartment and the New 4 Seasons Hotel -
while all the time still managing to make it to the main parties

We are lucky to be joined by Neil & Edda A - who are so looking forward to
their trip across the last of the Indian Ocean - Neil brings his
considerable Sigma 38 skills - with over 300 channel crossings, not to
mention a transatlantic or 2 and some Fastnet’s - Dr Edda ( not Dr Ed from
into the blue !) will be adding to our vast knowledge of medical matters -
so we figure, it will be motoring leg and the most hazardous medical ailment
will be sunburn - just our luck.

Finally we have to report that we may be in trouble with the Royal Naval Tot
Club of Antigua & Barbuda - as the K8 toast (good ships and wood ships….)
has been set to music - the instrumental version of Sailing by Rod Stewart -
and seems now to have become the fleet toast - hopefully Mike Rose will
forgive us for trifling with such serious Naval matters.

And so we have finally arrived in Mauritius (from Cocos Keeling) in record
time , sailing only 9 miles more then the rhumb line (sailed 2359 miles
rhumb line 2350 miles !), averaging 9.7 knots , or 234 miles per day -
with the most constant SE trades we have ever had, steaming along, all the
way, generally in 20 -25 knts of wind , mostly on a broad reach. We only
managed to get the kite up for the last 24 hours , and we did slow down for
some fishing - which included our biggest ever Mahi Mahi !(enough for the
whole WARC fleet).

Once again we are the fist Mono Hull in - and will have to wait a few days
for the rest of the fleet to arrive (although some folks are planning on
stopping off at the small island of Rodriguez along the way)

So tales of cyclones are something of the past - we dodged them all,
thanks to Bruce our ever reliable weather man - and can expect some heavy
rain and winds in the coming days - but safely tucked up in a marina.

So after 6 days at sea , we are making great progress - even if we have been
on the same tack since leaving Cocos Keeling - constant trade winds of 20 -
30 knts have kept us steaming along at an average of 10 knts - great fun .
however the seas have been bumpy to say the least. but aside from some
spilled dinner we have had no issues, other then, what to read / watch next
( Highly recommend -Andrew Marrs -A History of Modern Britain - which
requires a 2300 mile ocean passage to read !).

Many readers will come from weather obsessed England - as you can imagine
out here in the Indian Ocean we can’t tune into the BBC Shipping forecast (
other then World Service), nor can we watch the news at 10 on the TV - what
we do have is a great weather router - a private weather forecaster - of
course once a profession such a metrology has gone private and Bruce our
weather man is a great example of top notch weather men - nothing is as
simple as the old cry of ” more wind ahead ” No, today we get detailed
weather analysis , some of which on first reading will scare you, in this
case we are fine and so too hopefully are most of the fleet - who as ever
are behind us - but it is good to know that your weather man is looking out
for cyclones 2/3 days before they get officially named, that could give us a
real challenge - for now we on K8 will call the impending Indian Ocean
cyclone “Bruce” in honour of our weather man

From Bruce Buckley - our weather man who in a prior life spent around 15
years working in the Perth Tropical Cyclone Warning Centre dating back to
1978, so has seen hundreds of tropical systems develop into cyclones (
Hurricanes in Northern Hemisphere speak)

” The main tropical circulation has developed into a large scale low
pressure system I would describe as a multi-centred monsoonal low. These
tend to have the strongest winds around 200km from their centres under bands
of heavy thunderstorm activity, apart from where these bands spiral towards
the centre(s) of the low. At the moment there is a weakening low near 6S
57E, which is moving slowly towards the SW and is of no concern to us. Then
there is the main monsoonal low with two centres at the moment, one near 5S
75E and the other near 9S 82E. The other low to the east has weakened as a
significant feature. It is the centre near 9E 82E that bears watching.

Given this system’s current structure it is not likely to form into a
tropical cyclone within 48 hours and, in all probability, will remain a
monsoonal low. However, there are signs of an improving circulation and
upper level outflow and hence it is possible a tropical cyclone could form
beyond this. It is early in the season but TCs have formed in this region at
this time of the year several times before. The concern to you are the bands
of stronger winds that are developing under and near the very active band of
thunderstorms forming along the southern side of this low. This band is
currently centred along 12S between 75E and 85E with squally winds extending
south to around 14S. Gusty winds with lines of showers can be expected down
across the fleet as well, so be prepared for gusts to around 35 knots.

Average wind speeds are likely to be between 25 and 30 knots from between
ESE and SE. The low is likely to slowly move west south west over the next 2
to 3 days. However, with these systems it is common for one centre to die
out (the western one) and another to form, so do not be surprised if the low
appears to jump back to the east in the next report. In reality it would be
the formation of a new centre. What it means is that it is advisable to head
south of 15:30S Although the average wind speed is likely to still be
between 25 to 28 knots in this region, you should stay clear of 40knot or
greater squalls and areas of gale force winds associated with the band of
thunderstorms that is likely to edge southwards over the next 48 hours.

Otherwise the winds are as forecast yesterday morning.

For those of you who are looking at the GRIB files of the region, you will
notice a band of lighter winds in the region I am talking about. You need
to be very careful interpreting these as the computer models are very poor
at handling these sorts of weather systems. For example, at 12S 84E the
winds are currently averaging around 30 knots, with gusts probably close to
40 knots. At the same location the current prediction for this time from the
GFS model is for 17 knots of wind - not particularly accurate and somewhat
misleading. This system has not been named and is not likely to be, at least
for the next 2-3 days, and hence until there is a large diameter circulation
with gale force winds, the numerical models would not very accurately depict
the strength and structure of these systems.”

Note this is an edited version - so as to leave out tactical technical
information!

So in essence a little more complex then the usual question on people minds
in early October - Will I need an umbrella today ?

For half way Lunch today Jens will be making a half way roast and delicious
pudding - and we will relax for a few hours to celebrate only 1150 miles to
go until we reach Mauritius, and hopefully continue to dodge tropical
cyclones -FYI we are at 17S, 78E - so clear of this cyclone for now .

Indian Ocean Half Way Party -

Hi Everyone,

Well we are now well into the Indian Ocean on the passage from Cocus to
Mauritius, some 2400 miles.

We had a good start, right end of the line, but 28 seconds late (!).It was a
starboard gybe for 3 miles then we gybed to Port when we could clear the
island, and we are still on port gybe some 30 hours later.

Since then we have been sailing in 20-25 knot SE trade winds with occasional
gusts to 30 knots. The sea has been at about 2 meters. So it has been fast
sailing, first 24 hours we did 241 miles, i.e. for none mathematicians just
over 10 knots per hour, and that speed has continued ever since.

The weather pattern should hold at this for the next 4 days at least, so we
will continue sailing straight down the rhumbline, i.e. a great circle route
worked out by GPS which will get us there in the shortest distance.

A small blob on the horizon, when a low goes through the Southern Ocean, it
sends some largest waves up through the Indian Ocean, so we are forecast to
have 3-4 meter waves on the beam during the evening of the 2nd October,
which could make it even more rolly than it is now.

We expected to take water over the fore deck, which we are. So sealing the
hatches has proven to be a good move as the boat is completely dry inside
which is heaven. The aircon and generator are working well so we are going
along in perfect comfort. With some 1600 litres of fuel on board we should
have plenty for the trip.

Otherwise we are all settling down to the 10/11 day sail to Mauritius, which
could be accomplished without making a tack or gybe and without a sail
change, here’s hoping.

So here we are in the middle of the Indian Ocean anchored in the atoll of
Cocos Keeling - an Australian territory - and how pleasant - nearly as
nice as the legendry Tuamatos ( which we were at in April) - but also so
very different . 27 islands only 2 inhabited - we are anchored off Direction
Island - a paradise , and the best swimming in the atolls

Home Island - the small one lives 600 devout Muslims ( no booze) - who lead
a sheltered life and are something of throwback to another era - having been
governed between 1831 and 1978,by 4 generations of feudal landlord in the
form of the Clunies-Ross family - who created their own currency , and sat
as judge and jury for even the smallest crimes (eating fallen fruits)- Note
:A brilliant piece of planning had us visit them in the month of Ramadan

Then the West Island - 4 times the size of Home island - and occupied by
120 friendly Australians - and a huge runway as in Australian strategic
military airport !

For lots of photos see local photographer Karen Willshaw -
www.UnderSeaReflections.com

Life of both groups of islanders seems idyllic - beautiful beaches, , and
nothing to do - other then look after visiting yachities - at which they are
great . although “cultural tours” don’t take to long , they are masters at
organising beach parties on remote islands , and knowing our needs - a
food and wine festival!

Don’t mention the WARC - who advised that is was not possible for the crews
to attend the food & wine festival - as there were no ferries on a Sunday ,
and we HAD to start the next race leg ..a matter resolved in sub 10 min by
an enterprising Robert from Into the Blue . So we have a delayed start, a
chartered ferry and a great festival, with a brilliant Cuban style band
complete with dancers - and we even won the wine tasting competition.!!!

Who knows if such a beautiful place will still existing in 100 years, global
warming and rising sea levels must surly take its toll - this is the only
Atoll Darwin visited back in 1836, and remains the basis of his views on
coral reefs and their link to evolution.

Now just 2350 miles between us and the French island of Mauritius - a
favourable forecast will hopefully have us arriving 11th /12th Oct

K8 arrived at 1430 local time in these wonderful islands.

We left Bali 4 days 21 hours 30 minutes ago, sailed the whole way a distance
of 1118 miles at an average speed of 9.5 knots–which is incredible.
Best 24 hour run, 250 miles, a new Kealoha record for the Indian Ocean, in
fact a world record.

We know look forward to some relaxation before the next race leg starts on
Sunday.

All well on board awaiting custom clearance and then swimming.

David, Daniel, Nick, Adrian, Rosie & Jen

K8 crew.